A Luxury Antarctica Cruise with Swan Hellenic: Ask any avid traveller where they want to visit next and most will immediately have a destination in mind thanks to their travel bucket list. And for most people, number 1 on their bucket list is often some far flung, wild, exotic, luxury or extreme place.
Mine was no different and in fact I don’t think you could get any more far flung! Since I first started travelling many years ago, Antarctica was always right at the top of my travel bucket list. Neither of us knew anybody that had been – I was completely lacking in first-hand knowledge and almost everything I knew of this frozen wonderland came from David Attenborough documentaries.
But everything I saw and heard just reinforced how much I wanted to, no, how much I had to make it to Antarctica one day! The incredible wildlife, the icy landscapes, even the journey that you have to undertake to get there. I was determined to make it to the White Continent one day – and in so doing tick off all seven continents!
And that day came in February of this year – when I embarked on my most incredible travel adventure to date, onboard a luxury Antarctica cruise with Swan Hellenic Cruises.
Planning Your Antarctic Luxury Cruise
Pretty much the only way to reach Antarctica is by cruise. Whilst there are a number of different cruise companies and operators offering Antarctica cruises, there are also different styles, or types of cruises – so you need to plan and check this carefully as they can vary drastically in their offerings.
Generally, there are two main types of cruises to Antarctica – expedition cruising, or the larger ocean cruise liners. Most people travelling to Antarctica will opt for an expedition cruise, as this is by far the best way to get the most out of your trip – explained below.
Check out the Swan Hellenic website found here, for their up to date expedition cruise itineraries, schedules and costs.
What is an expedition cruise?
Expedition cruises are specifically designed to explore remote, and otherwise hard to reach places. The emphasis is very much on experiencing the destination and exploring, as opposed to prioritising the time onboard.
Expedition ships are much smaller, which allows them to traverse narrow channels, dock in shallow bays, and are kitted out with the landing vessels such as zodiacs so guests can go ashore to explore.
Guests on an expedition cruise will also be travelling with the expedition team – the onboard experts in their various fields, who are there to share their knowledge during your cruise. Expedition teams are generally made up of historians, meteorologists, ornithologists, marine biologists – whatever question you may have during your cruise, there will be someone to answer!
Due to their large size, regular ocean cruise liners simply cannot offer the same type of experience. The ships will rarely have a chance to dock, and it would be impossible to move the thousands of passengers onboard onto the smaller landing vessels to head ashore on an excursion.
In fact, specifically to Antarctica, there are strict regulations in place by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) to allow tourists to visit the continent whilst preserving its natural state. This includes restrictions such as cruising speed, so as to avoid collisions with whales and other marine life, the number of vessels allowed to park in any given location, and most importantly – a size restriction on the size of ship permitted to make continental landings.
Only cruise ships with fewer than 500 passengers are permitted by IAATO to land, and their passengers to disembark. As such boutique expedition cruises, like the ones offered by Swan Hellenic are the cruise of choice for guests wanting the full experience.
Whilst the larger ocean liner may ‘technically’ be cruising around Antarctica, so guests onboard can say they have been, it’s not quite the same memory to take away as having actually set foot onto the continent and walking amongst the wildlife!
Where do Swan Hellenic cruises depart from?
The majority of Swan Hellenics Antarctica cruises depart from the port town of Ushuaia, in Argentina, although some of the longer itineraries may depart from Buenos Aires, in Argentina, and they even offer some cruises that sail from Cape Town, in South Africa, ending in Ushuaia.
Ushuaia is one of the most southernmost cities in the world, and in fact is known as ‘the end of the world’. The city is nestled at the foothills of a beautiful snow-capped mountain range, before giving way onto the Beagle Channel, the gateway to the Drake Passage, and where your Antarctic voyage really begins!
Most cruises that depart from Ushuaia tend to set sail mid-afternoon, to early evening, and so depending on your flight arrival time to Ushuaia, and how long it takes to complete check-in onboard, you may have time to briefly disembark and explore, which I highly recommend, as the city is beautiful.
Preparing for the Cruise: What to Pack
I think it’s fair to say that I have travelled pretty extensively now – and as a result of spending so much time on the road, I am quite good when it comes to packing. But for this trip, I genuinely had no idea – I didn’t know what to expect other than it was going to be cold!
But luckily for me, Swan Hellenic were on hand to help! In the lead upto the cruise, along with all of your other travel documents, they send out a full travel guide, including packing list which Ifound very helpful!
The packing list is of course geared to being prepared for the cold – the average daily temperature ranges from well below freezing to around 3/4°C, which in itself in cold enough! But factor in being out on the open water in a speeding zodiac, or a sudden unexpected gust of cold wind, and all of a sudden it will feel a lot colder than what the temperature might read as.
I soon learnt that the windchill factor out in Antarctica definitely shouldn’t be taken lightly, and being prepared for sudden weather changes was crucial. The top tip that I took away was layers – better to have too many on and be able to remove them if you are too warm, than to be stuck out on land shivering and knowing you will be for the next couple of hours!
Onboard
Everyday wear – Life on board the ship itself is relaxed and the day-to-day dress code was casual, despite this being a high-end luxury cruise ship. Inside the ship the temperature was warm and cozy, but I quickly learnt that it was a good idea to always have something warm on hand in case I wanted to run out on deck to watch something.
Dinner and Evening Wear – Again there was no formal attire or dress code for evenings, with these also being casual and relaxed. However, as so often during the day I was bundled up in my thermals and outdoor wear, we liked to make an effort and get dressed up for dinner, but this wasn’t a requirement.
Footwear – Footwear only needs to be a consideration for the time you are onboard, as during zodiac expeditions and time on land you are provided with rubber Muck boots to wear. A pair of comfortable lightweight trainers or similar closed toe shoes are recommended – shoes that you can comfortably walk around the ship in – especially when the sea is rough!
Onshore
Swan Hellenic Parka – This was a nice surprise! All guests travelling with Swan Hellenic are provided with a 3-in-1 layered parka that is waiting in the stateroom on the day you join the cruise. This is both waterproof and windproof, complete with high collar and hood. And this is yours to keep when the cruise is over!
Waterproof clothing – I hadn’t actually considered waterproof clothing, but actually it is quite easy to get wet when on an excursion, especially on the journeys to and from landings in the zodiac ride. Your parka should do a good job of keeping your top half dry, but waterproof trousers are essential.
Footwear – Swan Hellenic provides all guests with a pair of rubber Muck boots for their onshore landings, but unfortunately unlike the parka these cannot be kept! Thick woollen or insulated socks are recommended to wear with the boots.
Hats, scarves and gloves – These are important not only for when doing landings or on a zodiac cruise, but just to keep yourself warm when you want to head out onto deck to see something.
Other
Bags – Swan Hellenic also provide all guests with a waterproof branded backpack, useful to carry anything with you that you may wish to take ashore with you on a landing – camera etc. But you may wish to pack an additional waterproof case for your camera, and your phone.
Sun protection – This may seem like an odd one to consider given the average sub-zero temperature, but definitely one to think about. The sun does come out in Antarctica, it can get very bright. And given the almost completely white surroundings, you need to protect your eyes from the snow glare. You will also need some high SPF sunscreen, and lip balms.
The below packing list comes directly from Swan Hellenics recommendations and I found it very useful!
- Waterproof trousers
- Wool jumper or fleece jacket
- Thermal underwear
- Long sleeve shirt
- One or two t-shirts
- Jeans and other comfortable trousers
- Gym clothing should you wish to use the onboard fitness centre
- Swim-wear
- Gloves
- Windproof hat
- Scarf
- Warm socks – multiple pairs
- Trainers / comfortable footwear for onboard
- Waterproof case(s) for camera, phone and other electronics
- UV-protection sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Camera, memory cards, batteries, flash drives etc
- Chargers and power banks
- Sea sickness / motion sickness medication
Embarking on Your Antarctic Adventure
The Departure Process
As mentioned above, the majority of Antarctica cruises will depart from the port town of Ushuaia – known as ‘The End of the World’ – taking its name from the fact that it is regarded as the southernmost inhabited city in the world.
It might seem like it is a venture in itself to even make it to Ushuaia, but actually Swan Hellenic do make this process as straight-forward as possible for all travellers.
International flights to and from Argentina (most likely arriving into Buenos Aires Ezeiza airport) are not included, and so it is the traveller’s own responsibility to arrange these. Isometimes think this is better, as it allows you to do as I did and extend your trip in the joining city to see more – I did an additional night before, and stayed for 5 nights after my cruise to explore more.
Should you need assistance with this, the reservations staff are always on hand to advise you on the best routes, timings and hotel options for your travels.
After arrival into Buenos Aires, the following is then included as part of the Swan Hellenic cruise fare to make the experience as easy as possible:
- Regional flights to the port of embarkation and/or disembarkation
- Group return transfers from the airport to the cruise port (via your included accommodation where applicable)
- One-night pre-cruise accommodation with breakfast in a 4/5-star hotel or onboard
The one-night pre-cruise accommodation is included as guests can check in and register during the course of the day before. And in the evening, there is a social hour including a pre-departure briefing by the Swan Hellenic team, to answer any questions guests may have, as well as a chance to meet your fellow cruisers.
In the morning, a very early breakfast is included, and then it is onboard the transfer buses to Buenos Aires to fly to Ushuaia, and onwards to the beautiful SH Diana, and your Antarctica cruise!
Life on Board SH Diana
Swan Hellenic offers 2 ships – the SH Diana, the SH Vega. I cruised onboard the SH Diana, and she was absolutely beautiful.
SH Diana is the largest of the three vessels, and is the newest addition to Swan Hellenics fleet. A polar-class ship, SH Diana is specifically designed for expedition cruising to the polar regions, thanks to the onboard technology, and the ice-resistant hull – she has everything so that guests can explore some of the world’s most inaccessible regions comfortably!
Even though SH Diana is an expedition ship, it doesn’t mean comfort is lacking. SH Diana is a 5-star vessel – stylishly and elegantly designed to make all guests feel truly comfortable on this luxury Antarctic cruise. And with only 192 guests onboard, it really is a luxury boutique cruise.
Overview of Onboard Inclusions:
- All meals onboard
- 24-hour room service
- Coffee, tea, soft drinks, and selected alcoholic beverages, available 24 hours per day
- Lecture programs by the experienced expedition team and guest speakers
- Standard Wi-Fi
- Onboard gratuities and port taxes
- One selected shore excursion/expedition activity per port of call – subject to weather and sea conditions (kayaking not included – however this can be pre-booked)
- Branded Swan Hellenic expedition parka to take home and use of rubber boots for wet zodiac landings.
Ship Features
Swan Restaurant
Swan Restaurant is the main dining venue onboard SH Diana, host to all three meals a day. Breakfast and lunch are served each day as buffet style, with a huge selection to choose from to cater to everyone. Lunch tended to be a different theme each day – some standout ones I remember being Indian, and even British with fish and chips and shepherd’s pie.
On an evening the restaurant became a little more high-end, giving us the perfect opportunity to dress up a little. Dinner was a la carte, with the choices varying each night, and the food was absolutely spectacular – especially coming from Michelin star winning chefs.
Club Lounge
Club Lounge is the secondary dining option onboard, open from the early hours for those early risers that want to grab a coffee then head out on deck for wildlife watching prior to breakfast.
A more casual and social space, Club Lounge serves lighter variations of breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of snacks throughout the day, such as afternoon tea and cakes. There is also a coffee machine located in Club Lounge for guests to help themselves at any time.
Pool Grill and Bar
Very much dependent on the weather conditions, the Pool Grill and Bar is the al fresco dining option, located towards the back of the ship outside the Club Lounge.
As the name suggests, Pool Grill serves a selection of grilled and barbecued classics – burgers, grilled fish, hot dogs etc – all to be enjoyed in an open-air environment surrounded by some of the most incredible scenery and views.
I had one meal served at the Pool Grill and Bar on my final night onboard, once I had arrived back and were docked in Ushuaia. This was one of my most memorable and enjoyable meals onboard – the barbecued meat and fish was incredible, with a huge buffet selection of sides, but it was the fact I was sat outdoors surrounded by the mountain range overlooking Ushuaia, and watching one of the most stunning sunsets.
Open deck jacuzzi
This was where you would be likely to find me most days during free time onboard!
The jacuzzi was located just outside the spa and wellness area, and was the perfect space to relax and unwind, be outdoors taking in the panoramic views, maybe even enjoying some whale watching, whilst staying nice and warm.
I spent many afternoons in the hot tub after the zodiac excursions, and were lucky enough to even see a humpback breach whilst in the jacuzzi!
Panoramic sauna
The sauna was another favourite of mineto warm up and relax after an excursion, as it was another onboard location from which to take in the incredible views whilst staying toasty – thanks to the full-length panoramic window looking out to sea.
Spa and Wellness
The onboard spa offers passengers a wide variety of treatments, from spa, massage, beauty and wellness treatments.
I indulged in the Balinese 4-hand massage, a massage delivered by two therapists at the same time.
SH Diana also features a state-of-the-art gym, equipped with cardio machines as well as free weights.
Heated outdoor pool
At the back of the ship, located out on deck outside the Club Lounge is the heated infinity pool.
Whilst the pool being open for use does very much depend on weather and sea conditions, when the pool is open, there is something almost magical about swimming in it, surrounded by the mountains and glaciers.
Observation lounge
The observation lounge was another area of the ship where I spent a lot of my time.
The observation lounge is located directly across from the Club Lounge, and as well as being the venue for the onboard lectures, is also very much a social space. The observation lounge is where the entire ship comes together at the end of the day’s explorations, prior to dinner, to enjoy a briefing by the expedition crew leader and also learn about the following days plan.
Oh – and the observation lounge also has a fully stocked bar, making it the perfect location for sitting back, relaxing, enjoying a cocktail or two, and hanging out with your fellow passengers.
Staterooms
Stateroom categories onboard SH Diana range from ocean view, to balcony, to suites, and all come equipped with amenities such as a Smart HDTV, from which guests can access each day’s itinerary, complimentary minibar, coffee machine, robes and slippers, and perhaps the most valuable of all – a pair of binoculars to help with the wildlife watching!
Onboard features and amenities aside, the stand-out factor to us of life onboard SH Diana really had to be the service I received from the crew.
I have cruised a lot – and whilst the service onboard a cruise is always great, the service from the crew onboard SH Diana was absolutely exceptional. Nothing was too much trouble for the staff. They learnt everyones names on day 1 and addressed us by name every day onwards. They remembered the specific wine I ordered with my dinner on day 1 and made sure to have a bottle chilling at every meal. They stopped and chatted to us when they could – definitely a benefit of a small and personal boutique cruise as opposed to travelling with thousands of passengers.
The Drake Lake or the Drake Shake?
After setting sail from Ushuaia, and having firstly passed through the Beagle Channel, the next 2 days and nights of the cruise were to be spent crossing the Drake Passage, before arriving on the morning of day 4 to the Antarctic Peninsula.
The Drake Passage – the 600 mile stretch of water between the South Americas Cape Horn, Chile and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica – is known to be one of the most treacherous bodies of water in the world.
The dangerous reputation comes from the high waves, some of which have been reported in excess of 65 feet, roaring winds, and deadly storms – the three of which can often all be encountered at the same time!
When the crossing is particularly choppy, due to the storms or high winds causing these freak waves, the Drake Passage is renamed as the ‘Drake Shake’. What passengers really hope for – is an uneventful crossing, with as calm conditions as possible – known as the ‘Drake Lake’.
The reason that the Drake Passage is so affected by storms and winds causing extreme sea conditions is because the Southern Ocean is unbroken by land – meaning that when winds are high, there is no shelter from them.
In addition, the seawater itself in the passage is also a collision of cold water from the south, and warm from the north which creates powerful circular currents. Strong currents – strong winds – violent storms – the Drake Passage really does deserve its reputation as one of the most treacherous voyages!
Having said that, it is possible to have a relatively smooth crossing on the Drake Passage. On the journey to the peninsula from Ushuaia, I definitely experienced the Drake Lake! The sea was choppy, that was to be expected. But I could easily walk around the shop without being thrown around, and there was no motion sickness whatsoever.
On the way back – unfortunately I can’t say the same…and we got the Drake Shake! Which, if I’m being honest, whilst not the most pleasant cruising conditions, I am kind of glad to be able to say that I experienced it and survived it!
The main negative to a bad sea storm is that it can impact on the itinerary. On the final day on the peninsula, there were some difficult sailing conditions already being faced, and as a result our captain made the difficult decision to cancel our final landing. Instead, we set off back across the Drake Passage a few hours ahead of planned to try and get ahead of the worst of the storm.
The crossing on the way back was challenging – the ship felt like it was bouncing, waves were splashing right onto the balcony (bearing in mind we were on deck 5!) – and even when in bed we were rolling from side to side! I was glad that we had left early to get ahead of the worst of it – as I’m not sure we could have taken more.
But, all of this aside – every single thing that I had encountered during the 4 days on the peninsula, every whale we had seen, the time spent kayaking, every step taken on land amongst the penguin colonies made every bump, every bounce and every bit of choppiness worth it!
Wildlife Encounters
Without any doubt, one of the things I was most excited about on the cruise was the different wildlife we would see – well, that we would hopefully see, as of course, we know it can never be guaranteed.
But the fact that we even had the opportunity to see Antarctica’s native wildlife in its natural habitat was exciting enough – I knew I would be spending almost every waking moment onboard eyes scanning the horizon!
I did a lot of research beforehand, to gauge as much information as I could about what we could potentially be spotting on the cruise, and the results were very exciting!
Antarctica is home to some unique and diverse wildlife – with upto 235 different animal species found here. Some of these we had little to zero chance of encountering, as they are sea creatures found deep within the icy waters, but it was still interesting to learn that somewhere so remote and desolate is still teeming with life.
Another interesting fact about Antarctica is that, unlike its polar opposite, the Arctic, Antarctica has no terrestrial or land mammals – the only continent on Earth that doesn’t. However marine life and birds are plentiful – especially penguins, of which 8 species can be found in Antarctica.
It is worth noting that on an Antarctica cruise, you only explore the tip of the Antarctic peninsula, the most minute fraction of the entire continent. The 235 species that live here are scattered across the entire continent, with some exclusively found deeper on the continent, and others located on the islands on the opposite side of the peninsula to the one you may be cruising.
That being said, the opportunities for wildlife encounters are abundant during the cruise, and I could not have been more satisfied with what I saw. Although, I tell a lie – I was massively holding out hope for an orca whale sighting, but alas, it was not meant to be. But there was one day at lunch, we saw a dorsal fin sticking out of the sea in the distance, that was very similar to what an orca fin would look like…and there was talk around the boat of orca pods being sighted, so in my mind, we did!
However, the wildlife that we encountered during the cruise was more than exciting!
Penguins
Antarctica and the surrounding regions are home to 8 different species of penguins – Emperor, Gentoo, Chinstrap, King, Magellanic, Adelie, Rockhopper and Macaroni. I mean, how amazing are some of these names!
On an Antarctica cruise to the peninsula, it is not possible to see all of these species. King penguins are predominantly found deeper into Antarctica, with large colonies also situated in South Georgia. Rockhopper penguins are found in the Falkland Islands, and the emperor penguins, the largest of all penguin species are the least seen as they are mainly found deep inland.
However, an emperor sighting, whilst rare, is not impossible – as sometimes during childhood they may venture a little off course when swimming. I could honestly not believe my luck when, on the day of my very first continental landing, before we had even laid eyes on any other penguin species, we were notified by the expedition team leader that a juvenile emperor penguin was resting where we landed!
And to put it into perspective just how rare these sightings are, in the 20 years he had been working in Antarctica, he had seen an emperor penguin only twice!
During the rest of the cruise, we landed on two sets of islands, one home to a huge colony of gentoo penguins, the other home to the adorable chinstrap penguins – look at the photo below and you can clearly see how they get their name! Both of these colonies were nesting colonies, and there were some very, very cute chicks around!
I couldn’t believe just how many there were on some of these tiny, tiny islands. There were penguins on top of penguins on top of penguins. And they were loud! And – smelly! That is something that I was not prepared for – although we were warned about and briefed about multiple times prior to the landing.
The penguins quite literally go to the toilet wherever they are at the time the need strikes them, and so pretty much the entire island is covered in penguin guano. And when I say they go wherever – this also includes on each other!
As well as chinstrap and gentoo, the other penguin species that we saw (although not up close) was the magellanic penguin, colonies of which are located throughout the Drake Passage. We saw multiple magellanic penguins ‘porpoising’ as we cruised through the passage – swimming at speed through the water and then propelling themselves up in the air before diving back in again.
We should also have encountered Adelie penguins, but unfortunately due to the sea and weather conditions we had to amend the itinerary last minute, meaning that we would no longer visit the island home to an Adelie penguin colony. But I mean, 4 out of 8 species isn’t bad at all!!
All in all, the penguin encounters were just incredible –and to walk amongst them on the continent of Antarctica itself felt like a once in a lifetime experience.
Whales
I was more than just a little excited to see whales!
In all the travelling that I have done, I have only ever been lucky enough to see whales twice – once in South Africa, and the other time in Iceland. However, both times the whales were quite distant, and the viewing wasn’t the best. This time around, knowing I was spending 9 days at sea cruising through oceans known for their whale population made me hopeful for better sightings.
Just as Antarctica is home to 8 species of penguins, there are also up to 8 species of whales to encounter in Antarctica – blue, fin, humpback, minke, right, sei, sperm and orcas. Of these 8, humpbacks are the most commonly sighted, closely followed by minke.
And whilst during the cruise I only saw 2 out of these 8 species, these whale sightings were nothing short of spectacular!
I saw humpback whales galore – and more on that in a second. In fact, we saw humpback whales on at least 6 out of the 9 days cruising. And on the way back to Ushuaia, just a couple of hours before we pulled back in to port, we also came across 3 sei whales too. It was so helpful having the expedition team experts on hand to identify the species.
And maybe I saw 3 species – I’m still sticking with my theory that the dorsal fin I saw belonged to an orca so 3 out of 8, let’s go with that!
But as for humpbacks, they were everywhere! Humpbacks are the most commonly sighted of all the whale species, as they have a lot of identifying behaviours that keep them close to the surface, whereas some of the other species spend a lot of their time in deeper waters.
I saw my first whale on the second day of the cruise, first spotted by the distinctive blow, and then I saw the curve of the back followed by the small dorsal fin. This sighting was a little way off in the distance, but it got us very excited and prompted us to always keep an eye out.
But if you have already seen my Antarctica content on Instagram, you will know that the most thrilling and exhilarating whale sightings came on the very day we arrived to the Antarctic peninsula. Having spent 2 days crossing the Drake Passage, and sailing through the night, I awoke in the morning docked, to a tannoy announcement, “Good morning ladies and gentlemen, and welcome to Antarctica!”.
Feeling almost nervous, I opened my curtains and looked out onto the breathtaking, stunning landscape – glaciers, mountains, and the mirror-like surface of the ocean – of Charlotte Bay. And quite literally, as I stepped out onto the balcony, to take in the view, I saw and heard the blow – as not one, not two, but three humpbacks passed almost directly in front of my stateroom balcony!
Whilst this would have been exciting at the best of times anyway – I could not believe my luck that the whales were in the bay on this very morning, as this was the day that I had signed up for the kayaking activity (full details on how the kayaking excursions work in the section below). We were going to be out, on the water of Charlotte Bay in a 2-person sea kayak, with humpback whales swimming around us. I could not believe that this was happening!
And what an experience it was. After carefully getting into the kayak from the zodiac, we slowly set off paddling around the bay following the guide, wanting to listen to the instructions we were being given but all I could concentrate on was the pod of whales I could see – and hear! – a little way off in the distance. We did slowly start paddling towards them, until we were at a safe viewing distance, and then stopped so we could observe them safely.
But of course, these are wild animals and they don’t stay in one place! All of a sudden, the whales submerged – and I was looking all around, looking for the telltale sign of bubbles rising meaning the whales are coming up for air. And then I saw bubbles…but coming towards us…the next moment the kayak started rocking, and when I looked down, a whale was swimming directly underneath our kayak! It was so close to the surface I could see the barnacles attached, and the next moment the whale surfaced right next to us, along with its 2 friends.
This was hands down the highlight of my Antarctica cruise experience – if not one of the most heart-stopping moments of my entire lives!
Seabirds
There are up to 35 species of seabirds found living in Antarctica, 19 of which actually breed there.
Different seabirds can be seen pretty much throughout the entirety of the cruise, and given that some of them do look very alike, it can often times be hard to distinguish and identify – that was why it was so helpful to have an ornithologist as part of our onboard expedition team.
The most common birds seen are albatrosses, cormorants, skuas, sheathbills and petrels.
Dolphins
There are not many species of dolphins found in Antarctic waters, as most species prefer warmer waters. However, there are 2 species that can be sometimes seen on an Antarctica cruise – the dusky dolphin, and the hourglass dolphin. These can often be confused, as they are quite similar, especially when it comes to their black and white colouring.
Both dusky and hourglass dolphins are found closer to the mainland as opposed to deep into Antarctica, and so are most commonly spotted in the Beagle Channel, and when crossing the Drake Passage.
I only saw dolphins once during the cruise, which was in the Beagle Channel on the way back to Ushuaia, and thanks to the knowledge of the cetacean specialist, we were told they were dusky dolphins. It was incredible to see them riding the bow wave of the ship, and then swimming away and porpoising through the water!
Seals
There are 6 different species of seals that live in Antarctica, all of which are well adapted to the icy conditions thanks to their thick layers of blubber and fur. In fact, the seals found in Antarctica apparently find it too warm, oftentimes swimming for the sheer purpose of cooling down.
The 6 species found in Antarctica are Weddell seals, fur seals, leopard seals, ross seals, Southern Elephant seals and crabeater seals. However, just as the different penguin species are scattered throughout the continent, the same is true for seals, and so on any one Antarctica cruise, depending on the route you take, you may only encounter a couple of the different species.
On a cruise to the Antarctic peninsula, the seals you are most likely to encounter are crabeater seals, due to their sheer volume, fur seals and Weddell seals. Whilst I would have loved to see an elephant seal, these are predominantly located in South Georgia and the Falklands.
I came across all three of the above-mentioned seals during the cruise, generally lounging around on the snow and ice during the shore excursions. Without a doubt, my favourites were the Weddell seals. I mean, just look at that face. How can you not fall in love!
Expedition Activities
My time on board SH Diana was amazing. I loved the luxury of the ship, the food, and hanging out on an evening with the fellow passengers in the lounges. But I also could not wait to get off the ship and start exploring Antarctica on the various expedition activities!
Zodiac Cruising
SH Diana carries a fleet of zodiac boats – small, open-air vessels that allow in-depth experiences out on the water. The smaller boats allow guests to get closer to glaciers and icebergs, as well as encountering wildlife at a closer range than being onboard SH Diana.
Zodiac cruising is one of the included activities on an Antarctic cruise with Swan Hellenic, and is offered as an activity when in a location where a shore landing isn’t possible. For example, on the day that I did the kayaking excursion around Charlotte Bay, as there was no landing here, all other passengers were given the opportunity to take a zodiac cruise around the bay, and do the whale watching from the zodiac.
The zodiacs are also used to transport guests from SH Diana to shore for one of the landed excursions. This in itself is an adventure – and of course, you never know what you may encounter to and from the ship!
The zodiacs are manned by members of the expedition team, all highly trained when it comes to operating them. And it is mandatory for all guests onboard to attend a safety briefing before they partake in any zodiac activity.
Kayaking
As we have already mentioned, the absolute highlight of the cruise was the kayaking experience – mainly due to the whale activity we encountered, but also just due to the sheer fact that we were kayaking out at sea, in Antarctica. I mean, how many people will get the chance to say that they have done that?
Well, quite a few guests onboard an Antarctica cruise with Swan Hellenic can also say the same!
Where possible and where circumstances permit it, guests have the option to partake in sea kayaking as one of the expedition activities. However – this is not included as standard and guests will need to reserve this in advance and pay for the kayaking separately.
Kayaking is on a first come, first served basis as there are only a very limited number of spaces available. The group size is generally around 8 – 10 people, in 4 – 5 double sea kayaks, meaning that the guide can keep everyone safe as well as well-informed about the excursion.
There is a mandatory briefing for the kayak prior to participating, and anyone wishing to participate must have previous kayaking experience, be able to communicate in English, as well as be over the age of 16.
We do highly, highly recommend taking part! Even if there is no wildlife to be observed during your excursion, gliding through the icy water, paddling through the towering glaciers and ever-changing icebergs is such a peaceful and tranquil experience. We cannot recommend this highly enough!
Shore Landings
Shore landings can be one of the most exciting parts of your Antarctica cruise.
As the name suggests, on a shore landing excursion the guests onboard SH Diana will board the zodiacs, and zip over to the landing site for an on-land shore excursion – usually with the purpose of encountering wildlife.
Upon disembarking the zodiacs, guests will receive a briefing by the expedition team about what they may see whilst on-land, where they are permitted to go, what time they need to be back to board the zodiacs, as well as any other important information.
The shore landing may be a guided explore, or the guests may be permitted to explore freely on their own, as long as they follow the clearly marked exploration route. There are also members of the expedition team stationed around the landing zone to assist and answer any questions the guests may have.
I took part in 3 shore landings during the cruise – the first was the continental landing where we set foot and walked on the actual mainland continent of Antarctica, as well as 2 landings at different islands, each of which were home to huge penguin colonies, as well as various seals.
And on the way back to SH Diana from one of the landings, we had to navigate 2 humpback whales who were crossing our path!
Hiking
Take the word hiking with a slight pinch of salt – we are not talking about a three-hour trek across snow and ice, or up and down glaciers!
However, when the opportunities arise to do so, when passengers have been able to go ashore on an expedition, there may be small hiking excursions operated by the expedition team. The team guide you on the best route to follow, grading the walk against each guests’ abilities, as well as of course sharing their vast knowledge along the way.
Educational Opportunities on your Antarctica Cruise
One of the main highlights of being on an expedition cruise is travelling alongside the expedition team themselves, a team of experts in various fields of study, including:
- Ornithologists
- Geologists
- Naturalists
- Marine biologists
- Historians
- Meteorologists
As well as of course being on hand to lead the expeditions, and pilot the zodiacs, the team are there to make sure that the guests onboard return home having had the chance to learn as much as possible about the destinations visited, and wildlife seen.
One of the ways that they do this is through the onboard lecture program. Usually scheduled for the sea days on the way to and from the Antarctica peninsula, the lectures are given by the expedition team members themselves, usually revolving around their particular field of study.
However, sometimes Swan Hellenic may bring onboard guest speakers, or guest lecturers. For example, on our cruise, we ended up giving a lift back to Ushuaia to one of the staff from the Penguin Post Office, who gave us a really interesting talk about the history.
Some of the lectures I attended include:
- Different species of whales we may see and how to distinguish them
- Different species of sea birds and how to identify them
- The different penguin breeds we will see on Antarctica
- The breeding cycle of penguins
- The changing climate of Antarctica – and how we can help!
Of course, should a lecture not be your cup of tea, (although they were only usually 30 – 45 minutes long), the team are always around the ship to answer questions, and of course, on each expedition they supervise and generally give a small amount of information based on what you are seeing.
Braving the Water – The Polar Plunge
This was a part of the Antarctica cruise that I was certainly in two minds about!
Wherever possible on their Antarctic cruises, (as of course being able to participate depends on weather and sea conditions etc), Swan Hellenic give their passengers the option to ‘do the polar plunge’ – which is exactly what it sounds like – a plunge from the boat into the icy, polar waters!
I was of course raring to go and it was an element of the trip I was very much counting down towards. And understandably – I mean, how many people can say that as well as actually having set foot on the continent of Antarctica, and walked amongst the penguins and seals, they have also swum in the waters?
The polar plunge is extremely well organised and structured. All guests wishing to partake register at the Guest Services desk the day before, and can then relax (as much as your nerves allow) until your expedition group number is called. At this point you head down to Base Camp, and join the line of fellow divers.
When it is your turn to ‘plunge’, you are strapped into the harness, attached to the safety line and off you go! The polar plunge isn’t a free for all swim – it is a jump from the exit door, a short swim if you can take the cold, and then a swim back to the ladder to exit. And you do remain harnessed and attached at all times, so it is extremely safe.
The ship photographer is also out in a zodiac to capture the moment.
I think it’s fair to say that a solid 90% of our cruise all plunged – knowing that there was a line of people behind me waiting definitely helped me make my feet move. And surprisingly, whilst the water was of course absolutely ice cold, (-1 if I recall), I was actually expecting it to be much worse! I didn’t hang around though, I jumped, turned around and immediately climbed out! Not like Sion, who took a moment to rearrange his hair before climbing out!
And as a little well done, there is a shot waiting for all guests who jump upon exiting – which certainly helped to warm you up.
It was nowhere near as bad as I was expecting it to be, and not at all worth all the trepidation! I have now swum in the Antarctic Ocean! What a feat!
Now to do the northern polar plunge!
FAQs: Common Questions About Traveling to Antarctica with Swan Hellenic Cruises
Travelling to such a remote, far-flung destination, as well as a destination that I really knew nothing about meant that there was a lot of research and planning to be done in advance!
Hopefully I have answered any burning questions you may have here, as well as inspired you to look into your own Antarctica cruise. But just in case, here are a few more questions answered, and feel free to reach out if any more come to mind.
How cold does it get in Antarctica?
The Antarctic Peninsula is the warmest part of the continent, but even so, the average temperature is still around -2°C. This can feel much colder though depending on the wind chill factor. However, be prepared for temperatures to drop as cold as -5°C.
When is the best time to visit Antarctica?
The best time to visit is during spring and summer, which falls from November through to March/April. Of course, the weather can never be guaranteed, especially somewhere like Antarctica – but travelling during these months will give the highest chance of getting at least some sunshine as opposed to inclement weather.
November through to January is also the mating season for a lot of the seabirds and mammals, including fur seals. This also means that travelling January to March penguin chicks and other seabird chicks will be plentiful as they will have been incubated and hatched.
January through to March is also the best time for whale spotting.
Do I need to pre-book excursions?
The continental landing, zodiac cruises and peninsula expeditions are included for all guests as part of the cruise.
The only additional excursion on an Antarctica cruise with Swan Hellenic would be kayaking, which does need to be pre-booked. There are only a very limited number of spaces available for this, and they are sold on a first come first served basis so don’t wait around if you want to do it.
Without a doubt, the kayaking excursion was the absolute highlight of the cruise, especially given the whale activity I encountered.
Do I need formal clothing?
Dress codes onboard all Swan Hellenic cruises, not just the Antarctica cruises are relaxed. Stick to my packing list as advised above and you should be all set.
Seasickness!
I understand this can be a real concern for many, especially given the notoriety of the Drake Passage.
Not everyone experiences motion sickness, but if you know you are prone to it or are unsure, I recommend visiting your doctor for advice on the best preventative medicine for you. It’s always better to be prepared just in case, especially in the case of the Drake Passage being rough.
How do I book my own Antarctica cruise?
The answer to that is easy – just head over to the Swan Hellenic website, found here.
Their website has all of the up-to-date cruise options, with the varying itineraries, as well as information around the three different ships too.
Conclusion
It’s fair to say that, hands down, travelling to Antarctica onboard this luxury cruise with Swan Hellenic is the most incredible, exhilarating and thrilling adventure I have had to date. I was in awe every single minute of every single day that I was there, and despite capturing hours of content, it still feels like none of it does justice!
I am constantly being asked about the experience, but quite honestly, its indescribable! My go to answer when asked how it was, is ‘there are no words!’
Antarctica truly is a bucket-list destination – and whilst I have shared my experience above, as well as provided advice and information on the process, the only way to truly understand the impact of a trip like this, is to visit for yourself. Trust me, there will be no regrets.