Gay Jordan Travel Guide: Is Jordan safe for gay travellers? Yes, Jordan is generally safe for gay travellers noting that this comes with cultural nuances you need to be aware of before visiting. Read this full LGBTQ+ travel guide to Jordan to understand what you should be aware of to have the safest trip to Jordan as possible.
When it comes to gay travel in the Middle East, Jordan is one of the most popular destinations in that respect given that homosexuality is legal in Jordan, and whilst the conversation around LGBTQ+ travel to Jordan remains complex, my time in Jordan was exceptional – this was one of my favorite destinations of the year!
Every day and every experience in Jordan left me in a state of awe. From the seemingly impossible feat that is the city of Petra, to sleeping under the stars in Wadi Rum, exploring stunning desert landscapes, to floating in the Dead Sea and diving deep into the Red Sea, this was my biggest adventure of the year.
The people of Jordan were incredibly welcoming and friendly, the food was delectable and there was so much to see and do – I for one, fully intend to return.
So lets get into my Gay Jordan Travel Guide, it is important that you read this in full. The conversation around gay travel to Jordan is complex and here I can only share my own experiences and thoughts, both of which have their own limitations.
My trip to Jordan was on a group trip for the most part (with about 13 other LGBTQ+ travellers) and then some solo travel time at the end. Let’s get into it.
In a rush? Key facts about gay travel to Jordan:
- Is homosexuality in Jordan legal? – Yes (since 1951)
- Is Jordan safe for gay travellers? – Generally yes, with discretion and nuance.
- Are there gay bars in Jordan? – No official ones.
- Best city for LGBTQ+ travellers in Jordan? – Amman
- Can you use Grindr? → Technically banned, but widely used via VPN.
Is Jordan Safe for Gay Travellers?
Yes, Jordan is generally safe for gay travellers but with a lot of context.
Before I get into this section, it is very important to recognise that my experience of ‘gay Jordan‘ is limited to the fact that I am a white, cisgender male, tourist and with that comes a level of privilege which should not be ignored.
I can share my experience, insights that were shared with me by a local gay Jordanian, insights from other LGBTQ+ travellers I travelled with (across the LGBTQ+ spectrum) and then encourage you to also look at other peoples content and experiences to gain a balanced view.
It is generally accepted, that when it comes to gay travel in the Middle East, Jordan is indeed one of the safer places to travel to. This aligns with the fact its one of the few countries in the Middle East to have decriminalised homosexuality – this is not to say this situation is perfect and its is best to always be well informed.
It is important to be mindful of cultural norms (for all sexualities) such as being aware that public displays of affection are a no go. It is also a core part of the culture that Jordanians want to offer a warm and safe welcome to anyone visiting Jordan and I felt this across the course of my trip, this very much contributed to how safe I felt.
I posed these questions to a gay local who painted a much more positive picture that I expected – who knew there had been an EDM event at Petra and there were people openly dancing with their pride flags for example?! My fundamental takeaway from this conversation was that I need not worry, I was safe and could enjoy the country.
I felt completely safe for the entirety of my trip including when I travelled alone for the final few days. My impression is that even is someone were to take issue with you being gay, they are not going to show this to you – everyone felt calm, respectful and peaceful here (which I can’t always say for the UK where I live).
Of course, like all countries, homophobia exists here, I don’t think you or I would be so naive to think otherwise, and there is no denying the tourists experience vs a locals experience will differ. But like all countries, LGBTQ+ people exist and having these discussions, and visiting these countries openly does have value.
Is my experience going to be refective of everyone that travels? Of course not. But from the LGBTQ+ travellers I have spoken with, their experience has also been very positive and they had the most wonderful time in Jordan. Do your research, be informed and travel mindfully – I for one, can’t wait to return.
Is Jordan Gay Friendly?
Jordan is not ‘gay friendly’ in the same way I would use the term ‘gay friendly’ when talking about popular gay friendly cities in Europe like Cologne or Valencia. You are not going to be welcomed with pride flags and overt gay spaces.
However, overall, Jordan can be considered gay friendly for travellers that are aware of the cultural limitations when it comes to being out, loud and proud – not forgetting, public displays of affection are a no go no matter your sexuality. I felt a warmth from the people of Jordan that made me feel very welcome during my trip.
In cities like Amman, with younger populations and more LGBTQ+ locals, you are more likely to encounter and experience the gay side of Jordan. And on the other hand, like the majority of countries around the world, there will be places not to go – the general rule here would be to stick to tourist activities and tourist cities where you can feel more at ease.
The people of Jordan are notoriously welcoming and I hope that you get to experience that side of the country as I did.
Gay Rights in Jordan
When it comes to gay rights in the Middle East, Jordan is one of the ‘better’ countries having at least decriminalised homosexuality in 1951 – however, there are no discrimination protections, equal marriage rights, right to adopt, ability to change legal gender and so on.
LGBTQ+ local activists can and are reported to be unfairly targeted via vague morality laws and the absence of legal protections. These local activists struggle to do their work as they can be targeted for doing so.
When you look at LGBTQ+ rights and protections in Jordan as a whole it is bleak and unlikely to change or progress because this is a Muslim country. Whilst laws are highly unlikely to progress, there is more hope for social attitudes, especially from the younger generations – I have had many positive messages sent to me on social media from local Jordanians extending and reinforcing their welcome.
It is always important to understand that the rights of a country vs the experience vs the people you will meet do not always match….so whilst the rights are bleak, lets start talking about the on the ground experience, because honestly, Jordan has so much to offer!
Gay Area of Jordan?
Is there a gay area in Jordan? The main gay area in Jordan is technically Amman. Technically in the sense there are no official gay places, but there more of a community here and this is where you would find unofficial gay spaces in Jordan.
Gay Scene in Amman, Jordan
The gay scene in Jordan is accessible for the most part, on a ‘knowing the right person‘ basis and this is one of the reasons I would recommend trying to connect (carefully as always) with local Jordanians on the apps.
I use the term ‘gay scene’ lightly, but the main ‘gay scene’ in Jordan will be found in Amman. There are a few key areas in Amman that are considered to be ‘more gay’ and attract LGBTQ+ locals and travellers alike.
One location for the gay scene in Jordan is around Rainbow Street- it’s not called rainbow street because it was created for the gays, but the gays have naturally been attracted to this street presumably because the rainbow is a global symbol for a safe space.
Having spoken with local gay guys in Jordan myself (in Amman), there most certainly is a growing gay scene, with certain parties and events aimed at the queer community where they can openly be themselves – the trick is speaking to the right people to find out what is coming up and when because these events are not openly advertised.
Gay Bars in Jordan
Are there any gay bars in Jordan? There are no official gay bars in Jordan. However there is a cute LGBTQ+ friendly cafe and bookshop which has become the unofficial, but well known amongst the community, spot to hang out.
The name of the place is Books@Cafe and I highly recommend visiting and showing your support. I hesitated to name the place but I can see this is widely listed online already as a safe space.
Beyond this spot, I did discuss gay nightlife in Jordan with a local friend and what they shared pleased me. They shared that there are always groups of gay guys at many of the clubs and it’s not like they are trying to hide away – its quite obvious and they feel comfortable to be there. They might not be making out on the dancefloor because thats not so much the culture here but they are taking up space.
As I mentioned above, Rainbow Street can draw in a queerer crowd, so whilst the bars here are not gay bars they have a higher chance of having a queer/mixed crowd vs other places in Amman.
Can you use dating apps like Grindr in Jordan?
I’ve mentioned connecting with locals where possible and of course the most common way is via apps like Grindr – I always encourage that you verify a person is real via Instagram or a video call (not just for Jordan but for anywhere to be honest, safety first!).
However, whilst Grindr is banned and ‘not accessible’ in Jordan, it was very active.
It’s technically not allowed to get a VPN to access Grindr but I can only assume thats what people do – the Grindr grid was very busy, so take from that what you will!
My Experience as a Gay Traveller in Jordan
My experience as a gay traveller in Jordan was a very positive, I felt safe when travelling solo when I travelled from Amman to Aqaba and of course felt extra safe when travelling as a group. Both dynamics worked well, being in a group with other LGBTQ+ travellers in Jordan was also beneficial so I could learn about their impressions and experiences.
I did meet with gay locals, one took me for dinner and we talked at length about the gay scene in Jordan. It sounds like there is much more to explore in that respect and I would love to return and see more of gay Jordan.
As I mentioned earlier, there is no denying the privileges I travel with, so do make sure to travel safety and read a wide range of experiences to make an assessment that fits for you.
Gay Friendly Hotels
It may come as no surprise that there are no gay hotels in Jordan, so my approach here is to share the ones that I (and many other queers travellers) stayed at during our time in Jordan.
Intercontinental Amman
Assuming you have had a long journey to Jordan and are arriving into Amman, checking in to the 5* Intercontinental Amman is a good start.
They have a great pool area, spacious rooms and are well located for all of the tourist activities you will want to do in Amman.
Old Village Resort (For Petra)
Just 2km from the Petra Visitor Centre, the Old Village Resort is one of the most highly rated 5* hotels in the area.
The rooms are very cute and feel authentic (the building dates back to the 1800s!) and they have a pool area with great views of the surrounding valley.
The hotel also offers free transport to and from Petra.
Mazayen Rum Camp
This was one of the things I was most looking forward to, staying in a Bedouin Camp in the heart of the desert.
The Mazayen Rum Camp had both bubble tents or more traditional cabins on offer and the views surrounding the camp were simply breathtaking.
Hilton Dead Sea Resort & Spa
Hliton is always a brand I will recommend when it comes to LGBTQ+ travel.
The Hilton Dead Sea Resort and Spa is a beautiful hotel with lots of stylish pool areas overlooking the dead sea, spacious rooms, one of the best buffets breakfasts I have had, and of course, access to the dead sea.
Baity Boutique Hotel – Aqaba
This was a very cute find in Aqaba. I wanted something simple and afforable but with a pool area.
Baity Boutique has a little rooftop pool with amazing views over the bay and of the mountains behind. After a super busy trip, this is the space I needed to finish up and relax in between going for dives in the Red Sea.
Gay Friendly Tours in Jordan
Take the guesswork away when it comes to planning and when it comes to staying safe and book yourself onto a tour.
My trip was as part of a tour with G Adventures, followed by a few nights solo at the end.
I had an extremely postive experience with G Adventures, I loved the fact that the local guides go through inclusivity training and I never felt that I had to take a step back into the closet whilst travelling with G.
Take a look at their Jordan tours here.
Activities for Gay Travellers visiting Jordan
The majority of the activities below would be included in most tours of Jordan, I suggest that you cross reference this list to any tour you book and then look at adding on anything that is missing yourself.
In my opinion, these are all unmissable!
Visit Petra
I simply had no idea how incredible this would be and I am kicking myself that we did not have more time here.
Don’t be mistaken as I was, Petra is not simply the famous image you see above (that is the treasury in Petra), Petra is an entire ancient city that was built in the middle of the desert into the very rocks themselves.
It’s a city that by all practical means, seems impossible to have existed. And yet at it’s peak, it thrived with waterways, pools and fountains – yes in the middle of the desert! I watched a documentary when I got home to really appreciate why this is a wonder of the world.
So yes…prepare to have your jaw dropped.
Practical things: you need a ticket to enter Petra. From the ticket desk you can pay for a golf cart to take you to the treasury (which marks the start of Petra) or you can walk 25-30 minutes to get there (which I preferred). A full day would be needed as minimum depending how much wanderlust you have.
Bonus: if you have a day ticket, you can purchase an add on and come back to do Petra by Night where they play a light show and project the history of Petra onto the treasury itself!
Wadi Rum – Bedouin Camp & Jeep Trip
Wadi Rum is a protected desert wilderness in southern Jordan and it is nothing short of spectacular.
If I told you to imagine you are on a futuristic version of Mars, this is perhaps what might come to mind. The landscape is awe inspiring.
Most people will come to Wadi Rum and stay overnight in one of the Bedouin Camps, many of which have those well known ‘bubble tents’ which really do look futuristic. When I went I stayed in one of the small cabins seen in the image under ‘Gay Friendly Hotels’.
For a day or two here, you will want to do a jeep tour of the desert, this was both exhilarating and visually beautiful to see more of the area and then spend the evening eating at camp and stargazing.
Amman
Most trips to Jordan will start and finish in the capital city of Amman. The city is quite something to behold and key spots to explore here include the likes of The Citadel, Ammans Roman Theatre, King Abdullah I Mosque and then exploring the vibrant markets and eating your way through the city!
Dead Sea
A bucketlist experience at (literally) the lowest point on the earth!
The Dead Sea sits at 430m below sea level and at about 9.6x saltier than the ocean, it is impossible to do anything but float! You couldn’t sink yourself if you tried – you might have seen those iconic shots of people sat in the sea relaxing and reading a newspaper as they float?
The easiest way to do this would be to stay at a hotel like the Hilton Dead Sea Resort & Spa which has easy access to the shore and has pots of mineral rich Dead Sea mud ready for you to apply to your skin before entering the water.
Once you are in the water, limit yourself to 15 minutes as the water can start to irritate. DO NOT SHAVE before going in either!
Once you are covered in mud and in the water, you can use the salt crystals found on the shore to gently exfoliate the mud away – and thats how its done!
Jerash
This can be done as a day trip from Amman. Jerash is a historic city famous for the incredibly well-preserved Greco-Roman ruins.
This is the main reason that tourists visit Jerash and within the ruins, key parts to spot include Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Artemis, the Forum (Oval Plaza) and the Hippodrome, a large stadium for chariot races.
This can be visited on a half day trip paired with grabbing some food in the city.
Scuba Diving in Aqaba
In the complete opposite direction, for any scuba diving enthusiasts, you are going to want to head south to Aqaba. I used the local JETT bus for around £10 to travel the 4 hour journey Amman to Aqaba (or you can fly).
Aqaba sits on the Red Sea and its main draw is scuba. The rates here were very reasonable, as was the accomodation. Get yourself a nice hotel in Aqaba to relax, do a few dives, a boat trip out to sea and enjoy a calm end to a somewhat adventurous trip!
Practical Considerations
Some practical considerations for your trip:
- Jordan is a Muslim country with its own distinct culture. Take note that public displays of affection are a no go for everyone regardless of sexuality.
- I would suggest that conversations around your LGBTQ+ identity and relationships should be had when you know you are in a safe space or safe company. Whilst I would not anticipate a backlash, because this topic is rarely discussed it may become awkward/difficult.
- Uber is a very cheap and safe way to get around the main cities.
- The currency is Jordanian Dinar, Apple Pay was widely available but it is always handy to have some cash.
- Get an eSim, it always makes life easier.
- The main international airport is about 30 minute drive from Amman – Queen Alia International Airport.
- Bus services around Jordan were easy to use. I used JETT bus services.
Gay Jordan – Wrap Up
This was honestly the best trip of the year for me. There is no denying the conversation around LGBTQ+ travel to Jordan and more widely the Middle East is complex but I can say that my experience here was a positive one and I am very keen to return.
As always, do your research, plan ahead and travel with care and sensibility…until next time, I might just see you there!